The fashion cycle has imploded into a revolving door of algorithm-generated micro aesthetics, giving consumers more options than ever before. EDITED cracks open the complex mosaic of "cores" to help retailers cut through the noise and decipher the true success stories.
- Part of Balletcore’s allure, legwarmers and tulle skirts experienced triple-digit increases in majority SKU sell outs. Pre-Fall 2023 shows proved the trend still has legs, with darker color schemes hinting at a grungier direction for trend-led retailers to explore.
- Moto jackets noted the highest sell out uptake across Bikercore styles, with biker boots waning and dressy and femme influences dictating footwear sales. Due to the influx of lace at Pre-Fall 2023 shows, this subculture may take a back seat for womenswear in FW23.
- With a recession on the horizon, a return to Normcore is undeniable. Straight and slouchy jeans, plain tanks and trench coats have seen increased sell outs, while 90s minimalism and grunge stories have emerged on the runway. Take this movement into 2023 by swapping white sneakers for loafers, plimsolls or Mary-Janes.
- While demand for cargos will continue into FW23, Gorpcore is slowing down. Refresh this look with military influences and grunge or workwear themes to tap into dystopian stories and capitalize on The Last of Us‘s viral status.
- New aesthetics crop up all the time and it can be hard to pinpoint whether they will blow up or fizzle out. Use sell outs in EDITED’s history tool to see whether dungarees are gaining momentum as the latest subculture, Granola Girl, enters the conversation.
Though not yet as commercialized as its fellow “cores,” EDITED’s sell out data proves that the delicate, feminine aesthetic has struck a chord with consumers. Products boasting everyday appeal, such as ballet flats, have seen steady success alongside wrap knits and cardigans, and pink and white bodysuits, which support the Pink Pilates Princess sister trend. Meanwhile, the highest YoY sales increase is driven by the on-the-nose references such as arm and legwarmers and tulle skirts or tutus, indicating early adoption status.
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Hyperfemininity is poised to be the underpinning trend in 2023, putting ballerina aesthetics front and center for the year. Plus, its strong runway presence indicates it’s only just getting warmed up. Ribbons and bows have emerged as a key detail for designers, cementing tie-front tops for SS23, which can be refreshed with floral corsages for FW23. The traditional baby pastel colorway will hold firm. However, directional retailers can tap into the darker hues creeping through, repositioning the trend as the grungier Ballerina Sleaze aesthetic – think corsets, frilly skirts and crochet.
The subculture, which counts Kim Kardashian and Rosalía as fans, has been part of consumer lexicons for almost a year, helping boost demand for accompanying products. Leather trousers for men moved well at Zara and Reserved, while for women, sell outs outpaced mini skirts by 56%. As interest in footwear swings back to favor smarter and more glamorous silhouettes, the number of biker boots selling out of majority SKUs over the past three months dwindled by 28% YoY.
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Bikercore is yet to peak, with leather becoming more commonplace for spring assortments. At the end of 2022, EDITED predicted that the moto jacket would be the hero piece of SS23. Over the past three months, this style saw the highest increase in sell outs YoY across the Bikercore assortment. The recent men’s shows also showed a shift toward cleaner racing styles over traditional biker jackets, as seen at Hermès. For women’s pre-fall, lace overtook leather as the standout material, suggesting the trend may run out of steam toward the end of the year for this market. While sell outs recently lagged for biker boots across both genders, they were a staple for menswear designers at FW23, so trend-led retailers will want to keep them in circulation.
A stripped-back aesthetic has made a quiet comeback amid the post-pandemic buzz, fuelling demand for the OG “core” popularized by unfussy wardrobe staples and 90s nostalgia. Straight-leg jeans are continuing to sell well, especially in womenswear. However, this iteration of Normcore will be defined by baggy silhouettes, which outpaced straight fits by 27%. A major departure from Normcore’s first era, white sneakers are dropping off consumer’s radar, registering a 17% decline in sell outs YoY.
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A 70%1 likelihood for a recession in the US in 2023 is predicted, while UK spending power is expected to fall even further this year. Fashion mirrors the social and economic landscape, with a shift away from Alessandro Michele’s signature maximalism following his departure from Gucci being a sign of the times. Minimalism received a smarter, cozier facelift in menswear in the form of relaxed tailored styles with textured layers and oversized proportions, such as long top coats and chunky knits. For women, nods to the 90s will overtake Y2K references, focusing on bandeau dresses, branded tees and minimal accessories to create a clean, pared-back aesthetic – just don’t call it “Recessioncore.”
A stalwart trend for several seasons, Gorpcore styles have maintained a strong performance at mass retailers. Cargo pants are the ubiquitous standout of the utilitarian uniform, registering a 126% increase in majority SKU sell outs YoY. While skirt versions emerged as a hot product, trousers outsold them seven-fold. Despite a slow start to winter, puffy and quilted jackets rose in popularity, while sell outs of fleeces noted a more minor sales increase YoY. Sell outs for hiker boots jumped less than 4% in line with EDITED's 2023 footwear trends to watch, calling out trail sneakers as an outdoor-friendly replacement.
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Gorpcore showed signs of slowing down on the men’s runway. Designers instead moved the trend in a more military-inspired direction, favoring MA-1 bombers and aviator coats. The appearance of cargos at both Pre-Fall 2023 and Fall 2023 runways secured continued demand for this silhouette, which was showcased with camo print and technical pockets with zips and poppers. The supporting grunge themes point to the trend evolving into a more dystopian-fuelled aesthetic, timely as the post-apocalyptic series The Last of Us reaches viral success. Refresh your assortment with a workwear influence on boots, jackets and overshirts alongside relaxed check shirting.
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1 Economists Place 70% Chance for US Recession in 2023 – Bloomberg