Sustainability, Technology
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The fashion industry recently commemorated ten years since the Rana Plaza Disaster, known as Fashion Revolution Day. Gartner highlighted sustainability as one of the 6 macro factors that will reshape business this decade.
In this interview, we discuss how the retail landscape has evolved and what initiatives Robyn has seen brands and retailers introducing to make fashion and softlines more sustainable. We ask for her opinions on the true price of sustainability and the key points that brands and retailers should consider when investing in future sustainability strategies.
Q: How would you define the true price of sustainability?
A: I would say that the true price of sustainability encompasses a product’s cost to the environment, supply chain workers, consumers, and retailers themselves. The cost of a garment goes far beyond its price tag.
Q: A decade since the Rana Plaza Disaster, what are your thoughts ten years on?
A: From a retailer and customer centric perspective, we’ve seen a general shift to greater consciousness, however we are by no means where we need to be. Discussions surrounding transparency have grown, but levels of action are still underwhelming. I also think, though the topics go hand-in-hand, ethics and the people of the supply chain have taken a back seat to sustainability when it comes to retailer focus. There needs to be a greater balance as there is still heavy injustice in the quality of life garment workers experience.
Q: How can retailers have an impact vs. be accused of ‘greenwashing’ which has been a growing conversation around activists and more inquisitive consumers e.g. the conscious Gen Zs?
A: As you mentioned, consumers have developed a greater curiosity in the lifecycle of a garment, thanks to growing conversations around climate change in general in the press and on social media. Hence, retailers risk being ‘called out’ if initiatives lack authenticity. For instance, if a retailer introduces resale but doesn’t reduce the number of new styles produced – is this a genuine sustainability move? Or is it just a marketing ploy? Brands must reconsider their entire business model rather than throw recycled PET at the problem. The EU has also announced new greenwashing regulations, so it has become more important than ever to keep sustainability claims credible and backed up with science.
Q: Why is it important to understand the true price of sustainability?
A: COP27 highlighted that we can no longer afford to carry an “ignorance is bliss” mentality and we can now see the impacts of climate change from our very doorsteps. Seasons are changing and retailers are now starting to pay the price, with the UK experiencing one of its wettest Marches on record and sending spring/summer sales plummeting. Both retailers and consumers need to understand the weight of their purchasing decisions to combat overproduction/overconsumption and support people and the planet. Brands should also facilitate this by adding carbon footprints, water consumption, and factory names to product descriptions.
Q: Do you think consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable fashion?
A: When it comes to demand forecasting, planning and price optimization, I think this is an interesting talking point, which sparks mixed opinions. In summary, the lower fast fashion prices we have become accustomed to cannot cover the cost of fair wages and eco materials. Forbes cited a Gartner survey that found over half of customers will only purchase from companies that practice environmental and social sustainability; that applies to the entire product life cycle. But, with a cost of living crisis on our hands, many retailers and customers are not in a position to absorb these increased costs. A recent survey by Untold Insights also found that 53% of Gen Zs and Millenials, the wokest of all generations, prioritize money-saving options over sustainable alternatives. Hence, 96% said that the current economic climate inhibits them from purchasing sustainably and has also contributed to the proliferation of resale – where consumers can find savings and sustainability in the same place.
Q: How can retailers boost interest in higher-priced sustainable products?
A: In recent months we’ve seen capsule wardrobes surface as a key trend. Consumers are turning to versatile staples to cut back on spending. Brands should consider “back-to-basics” assortment planning and focus on “elevated essentials” in the visual merchandising of conscious core styles, encouraging consumers to pay a little extra for high-quality tees and tanks that don’t cost the earth (in both senses) and last longer. Also, focus on the ‘price per wear’ of more expensive styles to emphasize value.
Q: What are your top points for retailers to consider when investing in sustainability?
A: It is important to remember the benefits sustainable developments can have on businesses rather than just the environment. I believe true change is possible when retailers evolve their perceptions of sustainability as something they have to, do to something they want to do.
Stay informed with our sustainability retail reports for the latest insights, trends, and strategies for a more sustainable future, such as our most recent: Has Fashion Hit Peak Sustainability?
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