In a category that continues to disrupt the market, we look at themes across recent collections, which trends the biggest streetwear brands are backing and what to focus on moving into 2022.
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Overarching Streetwear Themes
Preppy
This year, collegiate themes have taken hold of the streetwear market, with big-name brands like Kith, Aimé Leon Dore, and Noah releasing prep-inspired collections. Sporting influences have seen Kith collaborate with tennis brand Wilson, and Nike release a NOCTA golf range. Set to continue into 2022, invest in the trend's hero pieces, including varsity jackets, sweater vests, polos and loafers.
Image via Kith
Gorpcore
Streetwear's obsession with the outdoors continued in 2021 - The North Face collaborated with both Gucci and Supreme on some of the most hyped releases this year. High street retailers also took note, with Uniqlo launching its outdoor-inspired collection with White Mountaineering. As technical clothing still dominates the space, windbreakers, gilets and cargos become core product lines for retailers.
Image via Aimé Leon Dore
Key Themes
Fleece jackets
Current state
The Lyst Index highlighted the Patagonia Classic Retro-X fleece as one of the most in-demand products at the beginning of this year. Since then, brands have bought into the Gorpcore aesthetic, favoring paneled detailing, usually in the form of a patch pocket on the chest with zips or contrast arm designs. Other brands including, Lazy Oaf and GOLF WANG have bought into more conversational, bold patterns that have been a favorite across mass-market retailers.
Images via @w00dw00d / @supremenewyork / @carharttwip / @golfwang / @lazyoaf / @kith
To consider for 2022
As outdoor themes continue to dominate heading into 2022, functional details like zips and patch pockets remain important. Besides jackets, fleece should be considered in other product areas, including hoodies, gilets and joggers. With pattern gaining momentum in the market, be sure to add this into next year's assortments. Think more commercial styles using monochromatic colors or look to JW Anderson's playful strawberry motifs in bright colors for more directional inspiration.
Images via PacSun, Gap, Urban Outfitters
Cargos
Current state
Another sub-trend from the outdoor aesthetic, the cargo trouser, has gained popularity in the menswear market this year, predominantly favoring traditional colors like olives and greens. Carhartt's range has seen in stock options increase 205% YoY across wholesalers in both the US and UK. For womenswear, styles feed into the Y2K re-emergence, noting baggier fits on joggers, chinos and denim.
Images via @neighborhood_official @weareivypark @doverstreetmarketlondon @carharttwip @wearebraindead @blvckd0pe
To consider for 2022
Update details next year by adding multiple pockets or experimenting with placement, as seen at Reese Cooper and White Mountaineering, where pockets were placed on the front leg. Colors still favor earthy tones in 2022, but shapes update to baggier silhouettes. As Y2K reigns for another season in womenswear, products should look to Tom Ford and Blumarine, both of which update the cargo in satin fabrications and bold colorways. While menswear focuses on more traditional styling, women's assortments should include more color and stock options across denim and trouser categories.
Images via boohooMAN, PacSun, ASOS
Sweater vests
Current state
Streetwear's current obsession with the preppy aesthetic has brought the sweater vest into focus, making it one of this year's hottest trends. Big names, including Blondey McCoy (who adopted the style into his own brand's collection), Thames, Tyler, The Creator and Bella Hadid have all propelled its popularity. Now established as a core item within assortments, this season saw labels like Stüssy and Perks and Mini elevate products with bold graphics and conversational patterns. Knitted textures were favored on slouchy shapes with V-neck styling across genders.
Images via @aude_julie @goodhood @bbcicecream @blondey @obeyclothing @ader_error
To consider for 2022
Now considered a wardrobe essential within ranges, update styles beyond core offerings with bold graphics and oversized fits. While preppy themes remain important for next season, consider buying into newer fabrications, taking inspiration from Stüssy's fleece vest, or developing options in sweatshirt material.
Images via H&M, COS, ASOS
Camouflage
Current state
While remaining popular on cargo trousers this season, camouflage gained traction across multiple product categories, including T-shirts, gilets and denim. As the trend feeds into outdoor themes, colors were kept to traditional khakis and browns. Tops and bottoms currently hold the most in-stock options in the UK, whereas tops and accessories dominate in the US for menswear.
Images via @jessylaw @palaceskateboards @carharttwip @hufworldwide @alyxstudio @heronpreston
To consider for 2022
Next year, traditional colors and prints will still be the focus, so look to apply the pattern to fleeces, gilets and trousers to work into Adventurecore stories. Add further newness into this area by covering camouflage on products outside of just Gorpcore areas, noting its appearance on a varsity jacket at the BOSS x Russell Athletic's preppy-inspired show. Wide-leg trousers and baggy Bermuda shorts feed into grunge stories and the print itself evolves into abstract or digital designs, noted at Burberry.
Images via boohooMAN, American Eagle Outfitters, Bershka
Nylon tracksuits
Current state
The growing popularity for technical functions and fabrications on garments within the streetwear market has seen many labels team up with performancewear brands this year, bringing together innovation and style. The nylon tracksuit featured in collaborations from Patta x C.P. Company, Supreme x The North Face and Nike x AMBUSH. Fits were kept baggy across genders with sporty elements reminiscent of the 90s, and with particular influence from the Y2K resurgence.
Images via @weareivypark @patta_nl @neighborhood_official @palaceskateboards @supremenewyork @yoon_ambush
To consider for 2022
Utilize its unisex appeal next year by offering it within gender-neutral ranges. Keep silhouettes baggy and incorporate technical features like taped zips and reflective colors. The Spring 2022 runway saw Spyder update styles with colorblock designs across genders and Saul Nash use technical drawcords and all-over prints. This is a trend that can carry color, as seen at Palace and IVY PARK this year, so include brighter color styles within assortments for a more directional take on the trend.
Images via Forever21, adidas Originals, Bershka
Gilets
Current state
The gilet became a wardrobe essential across streetwear labels this year, offering unisex appeal. Wavy quilting and collarless construction proved the most popular and were championed by brands like Aimé Leon Dore. Other styles of puffer vests saw color-blocking in citrus hues or patterns like checks and camouflage. Utilitarian themes introduced techy trims to zip-up styles with taped zips and bungee cords. While water repellent fabrics were favored, brands like Carhartt also offered cotton canvas workwear styles.
Images via @carharttwip @patta_nl @aimeleondore @peggygou_ @acoldwall @converse
To consider for 2022
Adventurecore themes remain important, so keep performance front of mind, promoting technical properties of garments that offer multi-functional uses. Where nylon dominates this product category, look to swap out for recycled alternatives like ECONYL® to offer sustainability to garments. As the gilet can double up as a transitional piece, look to buy into lighter weight versions heading into spring, enabling products to have greater longevity.
Images via River Island, Pull&Bear, MissPap
Spotlight: Kidswear
Current state
As technology plays a huge part in the New-Gen parenting world, seeing the rise of kidinfluencers and mini-me dressing, streetwear brands have started to take note. This year, labels including Off-White, Fear Of God, Marine Serre, and IVY PARK launched their debut childrenswear collections alongside luxury fashion platforms SSENSE and Browns, which introduced kidswear for the first time.
To consider for 2022
Next year, individuality will be a key theme for streetwear brands as kids develop their own personal style at a younger age, creating a need for exclusive collaborations and investment in growing trends like gender-neutral apparel. Parents' conscious buying habits will significantly influence their purchases in the childrenswear market, expecting brands to source more environmentally friendly products. Besides better sourcing decisions, the resale market has huge potential as sustainable consumers become more aware of the throw-away market in kidswear.
Images via IVY PARK, Fear Of God
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Editor's Note - The Impact of Virgil Abloh
We can't write about streetwear without recognizing the tragic passing of Virgil Abloh, the creative visionary of Off-White and Louis Vuitton menswear, who will leave behind a lasting legacy across fashion, music and art.
The success of Off-White was a core component in streetwear's meteoric rise from being once perceived as a fashion trend to a modern zeitgeist. The clout associated with the brand placed it at the forefront of drop culture, challenging product seasonality and disrupting what luxury fashion actually is, helping to cement sneakers, hoodies, and T-shirts as this generation's status symbols.
Abloh's quotation marks on products redefined logomania, while core elements such as zip-ties, diagonal stripes and arrows will forever be synonymous with his craft. Going beyond tangible designs, his work was a melting pot of culture and innovation, earning his title as a true genius transcending fashion, art and music.
His appointment at LVMH signified the luxury category's recognition of streetwear's influence, truly merging the two worlds. Long a place of exclusivity and elitism, the ascension of a Black designer to an executive position at a French Luxury house was a significant movement towards diversity and inclusion, awarding him greater influence to create change from within. We can expect to see Louis Vuitton carry on his legacy - pushing boundaries in design and fostering innovation while supporting the next generation of young Black designers who still face considerable barriers in fashion compared to their white peers.
Image via Off-White
