Designers put on one hell of a show for Spring 2023. The internet went wild for Coperni spraying a dress onto Bella Hadid, while surprise celebrity appearances on the catwalk were made by Cher, Ye and Paris Hilton - to name a few.As fashion month’s theatrics wind down, buyers and designers start to create and plan for their business’ subsequent collections. However, deciphering the winning trends from the thousands of looks presented across four cities in five weeks is no easy feat.
Hyper FemmeRetailers should already be familiar with romantic influences from the Coquette aesthetic, Cottagecore and Balletcore. Feminine themes are set to accelerate in SS23, following Acne Studios’ girlish runway featuring bows, rosettes and vintage kitten motifs. Gingham was ever-present across New York, Paris and Milan. Last summer, it made up less than 2% of printed apparel, highlighting the untapped potential next season to evoke femininity through this classic pattern. Pastels, frothy tulle layers and pearl accessories, as spied at Simone Rocha, will be in demand ahead of the next season of Bridgerton. Keep these elements in mind for updating Regency-themed assortments alongside Mary Janes, ribbon detailing, ruffles, satin and sheer fabrics.
Acne Studios, Simone Rocha & Burberry Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Vivetta, Moschino & Chopova Lowena Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
The 00s vs. the 80sYes, Y2K is here to stay. Designers pledged their continued devotion to this influential era with itty bitty crop tops and low-slung jeans, cargos and mini skirts. While these trends continue to command attention at Diesel and Versace (and in retailers’ current assortments), they’ve been challenged by other eras. The 80s resurgence, as predicted by EDITED, has been blossoming. Puffball hems and peplums, which Dior, MSGM and Collina Strada recently revived, are yet to see the same level of investment as 00s-inspired trends. Very few retailers are backing bubble skirts, while the Y2K-approved micro-mini has grown 39% YoY in newness over the past three months alone. Yet, the re-emergence of this silhouette, alongside 80s staples like metallics and supersized shoulders and sleeves, presents directional retailers with an opportunity to get ahead of the curve. By Fall 2023, in line with the new trend cycle, we'd expect designers to continue using Y2K as a reference point, though its overall presence will lessen.
Diesel, Fendi & Versace Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Halpern, Collina Strada & Rick Owens Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
The Life of the PartyFrom LBDs to bridal, there was no shortage of occasionwear on the runway circuit. Supporting the 80s renaissance, Roberto Cavalli added dramatic trains to skirts and dresses, while Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano built on the hyper feminine theme with flounce and feather-emblazoned gowns. With Mermaidcore entering consumer’s lexicon and party season approaching, new sequinned dresses, tops and outerwear have surged 244% YoY over the past three months and will have longevity in 2023, as Valentino and Temperley London embraced this sparkly detail.
Temperley London, Giambattista Valli & Christian Siriano Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Loewe, Carolina Herrera & Valentino Spring 2023 - Images via SpotlightThis is the optimal trend to color up with the bold hues sweeping the runway. Versace and POSTER GIRL were inspired by Barbiecore, displaying hot pink and fuchsia collections. Neons are emerging, with highlighter green taking over from Kelly green, as seen at Michael Kors and Genny. Take note of the hottest hues and check out how the Spring 2023 color palettes boiled down: Reach out to see our color wheel in action.
Contemporary GrungeDespite the aforementioned hi-vis color schemes and ultra girly influences, the Spring 2023 runways were unseasonably dark. Nods to the grunge movement were made with sandwashed denim at Blumarine and Givenchy, and a flannel printed leather jacket at Bottega Veneta worn by ultimate 90s ‘it’ girl, Kate Moss. Balenciaga’s presentation emphasized the gritty theme, sending models trudging through a muddy dystopian catwalk in ripped slouchy jeans, oversized jackets and hoodies. Given the brand’s sphere of influence, this trend will undoubtedly resonate with customers next spring. Ongoing stories of Dopamine Dressing have led to numbers of new black apparel dropping 5% YoY, so retailers need to up the investment in dark products to merchandise alongside basics and distressed denim with raw finishes to juxtapose happy hues.
KNWLS, Balenciaga & Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Blumarine, Givenchy & Prada Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Sexy Dressing 3.0Fashion is typically representative of cultural, social and political events and designers used the Spring 2023 runways as a vessel to convey women's struggle for body autonomy. As anticipated by EDITED, brazen sexuality was amplified this season in the post-Roe v. Wade world, with brands like Saint Laurent and Paco Rabanne fueling the popular naked dresses and Bondagecore aesthetics. This season, risqué trends had a fresh development, with designers capitalizing on underwear as daywear. Boudoir elements were cited at Fe Noel and Nensi Dojaka, which sent models down the runway in lingerie-style slips. Miu Miu and Balenciaga replaced visible thongs with borrowed-from-the-boyfriend branded briefs peeking over jeans and mini skirts. Running parallel to the overtly sexual references, inspiration from 1950s pin-ups acted as a demure sister trend. Dolce & Gabbana tapped Kim Kardashian to reinterpret its archival pieces from 1987 to 2007, exhibiting sensuality through figure-hugging corsets, opera gloves and leopard print.
Miu Miu, Dilara Findikoglu & Fe Noel Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Monot, Nensi Dojaka & Saint Laurent Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
BikercoreEDITED customers will know Bikercore has been on our radar for some time. Another unconventional spring aesthetic to complement the darker S&M and grunge trends bubbling up, retailers should take cues from Off-White, David Koma and Louis Vuitton, dabbling in leather looks and racing stripes. Despite being a weightier fabric, leather is becoming more commonplace in spring, with SS22 experiencing a 13% increase vs. SS21. Risk-averse brands should start small with details like eyelets, accessories like bandannas and items with a proven successful track record, like chunky treaded boots and mini skirts. Fashion forward retailers can incorporate bold colors as executed at GCDS and Pam Hogg. Those delivering biker jackets in fall should hold off on discounting at the end of the season, as their presence on the runway confirms future demand.
Ancuta Sarca, GCDS & BOSS Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Louis Vuitton, Off-White, David Koma Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
A Return to MinimalismAmid the lavish displays of space-occupying gowns, barbies and biker babes, clean-cut minimalism made its quiet comeback and is more critical than ever. As the economy teeters toward a global recession, this trend will be your cash cow as customers prioritize quality basics and seasonless apparel as the cost of living crisis weighs on their disposable income. Offer a stripped-back approach to your Y2K aesthetics, with tank tops, simple two-pieces and classic denim, as per Dior and Max Mara. With consumers back in the office, Stella McCartney, Daniel W. Fletcher and Lanvin led by example, promoting desk-to-dinner looks with blazers, relaxed suiting, and simplistic dresses. Minimalist footwear was a standout, with heeled-thonged sandals at Ungaro and leather mules at Rejina Pyo. Keep these silhouettes in mind as post-lockdown hype for heels continues to swell - new styles arriving this year eclipsed 2021 by 35%.
Coperni, Lanvin, & Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2023 - Images via Spotlight
Images via Stella McCartney, Daniel W. Fletcher & Dior Spring 2023 - Images via SpotlightAre you an EDITED customer? Sign in to get more exclusive analysis from the Spring 2023 shows. Don’t forget to sign up for our Weekly EDIT for more red hot content delivered to your inbox