With Milan Fashion Week drawing to a close, fashion’s critics seem to have mixed feelings on how the week has been. Some complained that the designers clung to comfort blankets, revisiting past themes and known successes. Elsewhere, the collections were praised for the commerciality. That’s a confusing picture – one which we cut through to simply bring you the trends which consumers most want for AW 13/14. And seeing as it’s they who’ll be buying the collections, it’s worth listening!
1. Most talked-about Brand
Although they departed from their signature DNA last season (hello bright, optimisitc, 70s collection), Gucci still won over online spectators (they were Milan’s most-talked about designer for SS13). But this season saw Gucci head back to the dark side. They secured more than double the number of online mentions of their closest competitor; Prada. For AW 13/14, Frida Giannini’s Gucci woman is at once racy and refined, full-grown but fanciful. Lustrous surfaces, patent leather, defined shoulders and a straight silhouette were given a trend injection with plaid prints and seasonal colour hits of cobalt, grape and orange.
2. The Silhouette
Oversized proportions have been brewing for a few seasons now, but Milan really meant business with their full-blown scale. Oozing luxury, the decadence of dramatic outerwear and the sheer comfort of piled on layers has finally won consumers round too; 46% of online mentions of the trend were overtly positive during MFW! Setting the biggest example were MaxMara, Fendi and Sportmax.
3. Online Buzz
With 4,369 online mentions during MFW, pencil skirts are going nowhere. Milan does sex appeal like no other city, and although the garment featured on New York and London catwalks, it was here that pulses really got racing. See Francesco Scognamiglio for leopard print or patent leather versions, or experiment with a longer line like Jo No Fui.
4. Colour
Across New York, London and Milan, designers have given reds and blues serious weighting: sit up and listen, these are AW 13/14’s shades. Blue was rich and regal at Giorgio Armani, sultry and inky at Gianfranco Ferre and electric on silky pants and long wool coat at Missoni. Red was owned by Dolce & Gabbana‘s blood flood finale, whilst Moschino opted for a tomato shade and Prada used their bold tones on leather skirts. Yellow has sprung up on the colour wheel at the other two cities so far, but Milan tackled the tone more forcibly. Versace‘s sulphuric shade matched the collection’s brash theme and was especially vivid in the leopard prints. Jil Sander toned it down a notch or two with a mustard flash of full skirt and straight-cut tunics.
5. Key Shape: Loose Trouser
As an antidote to all the sexy cuts on the runway were an array of loose-fitting trousers, generous in cut and luxurious in fabric. They were in coloured leather, long and flowing at DSquared2, cropped and peg-legged at Blumarine and formally cut at Sportmax. They key is the nonchalance towards traditional tailoring, an undoing on the expected.
6. Theme: Mid-Century Mash-up
We saw it in New York, we clocked it in London and now Milan takes a turn at the mid-century referencing, blurring the lines between 40s, 50s and hints of 70s. There were overt references at Prada, with dirndl skirts, nipped waists and heavy wool suiting. Bottega Veneta‘s take oozed contemporary glamour, blending futuristic shoulders with dresses fit for the screen.
7. The Detail: Sequins
Luminescent finishes danced and sparkled their way down Milan’s catwalks, be it in lurex threads, metallic fabrics or rubberised finishes. But the sure-fire hit for twinkle is the good old fashioned embellishment, paying homage to Milan’s detail fanaticism. Trend-setter Prada sprinkled jet black motifs over asymmetrically cut skirts and dresses, Angelo Marani pepped up his sporty sweaters and Dolce & Gabbana‘s monastic drama came to a dazzling end with red dress after red dress of glittering loveliness.
8. Top Fabrics
Milan’s top trump is its fabrics and the two key trends this AW 13/14 played into the hands of the capital’s craftmen. Fun fur has been seen in each city in the build up to Milan, so of course furrier Fendi took on the challenge of reinvention with their coloured furs. They spruced up bags, glasses, shoes and hair with tufts of the fluffy stuff, whilst the garments were spliced with colour, striped, ruffled and trimmed. It’s got consumer backing, so expect to see this to well commercially, with 33% of online mentions being strong in positive sentiment.
And with the rough, there’s the smooth – and patent leathers in Milan were the creamiest, shiniest of the smooths! Beautiful sports-infused daywear in patent leathers came from Jo No Fui in straight midi skirts and cropped leg trousers. Gucci meanwhile took the look to darker places; a high necked, long sleeved pencil dress went full throttle fetishism, with the fishnets and booties just adding to the thrill.
9. Theme: Sports-Mod
It’s the update of sports luxe; an increased femininity and a few unexpected references to a look which has until now been largely clinical and genderless. Simonetta Ravizza‘s buttery leather dungarees, sweaters and tees were sent out with cropped furs and plaid prints. Etro‘s contrast sleeves, bomber jackets and second skin layering was sent against a trippy retro palette and heady prints.
10. Persuasive Prints
Building on the season’s key print trends were the leopards and plaids at Milan. From Moschino, the tartans were both classic and witty, with kilts and three-piece suits embroidered with ‘M’ motifs. Trussardi, Versace and Francesco Scognamiglio all invested in leopard; ranging from the traditional (Trussardi) to the ridiculous (Versace). Milanese designers also took a fancy to stripes for AW 13/14, in greater numbers than we’ve seen in other cities. Stripes at Fendi, Daniela Gregis, MaxMara and Les Copains were boldly coloured and evenly spaced.
Katie Smith
