What To Expect For Spring 2024

• All eyes are on Sabato De Sarno, who will be revealing his first collection for Gucci, alongside new creative directors at Tom Ford and Helmut Lang. Plus, New York’s previously depleted schedule is being revived with a host of designers returning to the Big Apple.
• London’s young designers are in the spotlight with the British Fashion Council celebrating 30 years of its NEWGEN program. One of its new 2023/34 recipients and LVMH Prize semi-finalist AARON ESH will be one to watch.
• The launch of Phoebe Philo’s namesake label in September will ensure minimalism is front of mind across the industry, further propelling the Quiet Luxury narrative.
• Animal print, athleisure and denim are trends to watch for SS24, following early backing in the Pre-Spring and Copenhagen collections and significant cultural moments.

1. Changing of the Guard

Sabato De Sarno at Gucci is undoubtedly the season’s most anticipated show, which previously saw Alessandro Michele at the helm for seven years. While we are yet to see his new vision for the luxury Italian brand, the designer enlisted the iconic model of the 2000s and Phoebe Philo’s muse Daria Werbowy for his first campaign, making headline news. Elsewhere, Peter Hawking will debut at Tom Ford, having been a longtime designer for the brand, and Peter Do will showcase his first collection for Helmut Lang. Stefano Gallici is also taking over as creative director at Ann Demeulemeester.

A host of designers are also returning to the New York schedule, including Ralph Lauren, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Jonathan Cohen, which is set to revive the city after a diminishing schedule in previous seasons. While in Milan, The Attico will be making its first runway debut. In contrast, Gabriela Hearst will be showing her last collection for Chloé after three years. Under her reign, Chloé became the first European luxury fashion house to be given B Corp status.

2. Celebrating Young Designers

The British Fashion Council will celebrate 30 years of its talent initiative NEWGEN this season, with the late Alexander McQueen being its first recipient. To honor this, the BFC is hosting a series of events, including an exhibition at the Design Museum in London called REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion. Its cohort for 2023/24 includes five new recipients: The Winter House, AARON ESH, DERRICK, Kazna Asker and TOLU COKER. LVMH Prize semi-finalist AARON ESH will also make his debut during LFW, and London-based designer Karoline Vitto – an alumnus of Fashion East – will make her debut on the Milan schedule as part of the Supported by Dolce & Gabbana program.

3. Minimalism Will Be in the Spotlight

Minimalism has been increasingly popular both on the runway and across the market in recent seasons, seeing designers and consumers slowly swapping out maximalism’s dopamine colors and psychedelic prints for toned-down neutrals and understated silhouettes. The success of the tank top is a clear example of this shift in direction, surfacing as one of SS23’s best-selling styles.

Since leaving Celine in 2017, Phoebe Philo will be returning to the industry this September with the debut of her namesake brand. The originator of “Quiet Luxury,” we can expect this launch to have a direct effect on the upcoming collections, further compounding the minimalist narrative.

4. Trends to Watch

Animal print made a loud return on the Copenhagen Spring 2024 runway, with tiger and leopard appearing at cult names like Ganni and Gestuz. While solids have reigned in recent seasons, we anticipate the revival of these classic patterns across the Spring 2024 big four cities.

Athleisure bubbled up for the first time in several seasons in the Pre-Spring 2024 collections, championing the sporty side stripe, varsity bombers and color-blocking. Following the success of the Women’s World Cup, and with major sporting events planned for 2024, including the UEFA European Championship and Paris Olympics, these cultural moments will prompt the rise of sporty aesthetics in the fashion industry.

Denim has been rapidly gaining momentum in the luxury space, with more and more designers tapping into this lucrative market. As the shift towards casualization continues, we expect to see denim play a more significant role in collections this season.