The Return Of Neutrals

A cleansed palette is defining the FW23 season as retailers return to pared-back neutrals take over from the dopamine brights of recent seasons. Discover the most important neutral shades to have in your color mix now and in 2024.

  • Kendall Jenner and Jordan Dunn have contributed to the rise of buttermilk yellow in womenswear, with Everlane and COS key investors for FW23. Take cues from Skall Studio and ROTATE Birger Christensen and utilize for SS24 vacation and occasion lines.
  • Opt for luxe white within upcoming premium collections, like Reiss Atelier, and consider reframing current white denim options into partywear edits – a trend spotted in Mango’s upcoming party collaboration with Jen Ceballos.
  • Capitalize on “coffee order” dressing with latte-inspired palettes and style stories within emails – FRAME spotlighted “Café Au Lait” in August. Trench coats and knits remain key year-round buys, while MUNTHE has introduced buttery brown leather for SS24.
  • Choose rich chocolatey browns in line with the Quiet Luxury aesthetic. Browns accounted for 12% of FW23 majority SKU sell outs at River Island, with slinky dresses of note. Silk and sheer fabrics will also be a key trend for the shade in SS24 assortments.
  • Stone is a color to watch amid the resurgence of grey in the market. Corpcore is an important aesthetic for womenswear, while menswear retailers should promote the shade within earth-inspired palettes and Gorpcore stories for a quick win.

Buttermilk Yellow

A fresh alternative to creamy neutrals in womenswear, both COS and Everlane have backed yellows as “the new neutral” within FW23 promotions, landing nine and 11 apparel items, respectively. The latter has referenced the shade as “raffia,” while COS referred to it as “banana milk” in a recent email. Celebrities have also favored the color in recent months – Jordan Dunn sported a head-to-toe look at Wimbledon in July, while Kendall Jenner recently stepped out in a lemon trench coat, highlighting its position within fall wardrobes.

Despite this, yellow only accounts for 1% of recent womenswear apparel arrivals, highlighting a gap in the market for retailer investment. Buttermilk yellow was also a major SS24 color trend during Copenhagen Fashion Week, reinforcing its versatility across seasons. Look to Skall Studio’s crochet designs for vacation inspiration, or ROTATE Birger Christensen for partywear.

COS Email UK – Aug 18, 2023
Everlane Email UK – Sep 12, 2023
@jordandunn
Instagram – Jordan Dunn

New Arrivals

SATIN EFFECT POLO COLLAR SHIRT

Mid-yellow

Zara at Zara (US)

USD59.90
Roll Neck Sleeveless Top

Light yellow

NA-KD Basic at NA-KD (UK)

GBP19.95
Cable knit miniskirt

SKU name as stated on retailer’s website may not match colour displayed in image.

Mango at Mango (UK)

GBP25.99
Almond Oil
12-0713
Vanilla
12-0712
Vanilla Custard
12-0815
Transparent Yellow
11-0617
Winter White
11-0507

Spring 2024 Inspiration

Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Skall Studio Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Sandy Liang Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
ROTATE Birger Christensen Spring 2024

Luxe White

Despite being an evergreen shade, head-to-toe styling feeds into a more luxurious take on the “winter white” trend this fall – sweaters layered on shoulders provided a sophisticated look at T.M.Lewin. Reiss also recently debuted its new premium “Atelier” womenswear collection, with creamy whites accounting for 30% of the color mix. Mango proved that white denim is not only for summer, featuring a white denim co-ord in its recent teaser post for its upcoming partywear collaboration with Jen Ceballos. Retailers should use this as a prompt to reframe leftover SS23 styles within upcoming partywear edits.

In addition, New York Fashion Week signaled bright white to be the must-have color for SS24, with Proenza Schouler backing white tailoring and Michael Kors favoring lacey dresses and co-ords – lace is also proving a key fabric choice for fall newness as reveal & conceal themes continue to thrive. For menswear, look to Zegna for inspiration, with its knitted neck scarves elevating outfits.

Bright White
11-0601
Snow White
11-0602
Whisper White
11-0701

Recent Communications

@reiss
Instagram – Reiss
@mango
Instagram – Mango
@tmlewin
Instagram – T.M.Lewin

New Arrivals

The Arlo Hi-Rise Straight Jean

Bone

Denim Forum at Aritzia (US)

USD110.00
Oversize striped satin shirt -Studio

White_250

Massimo Dutti at Massimo Dutti (UK)

GBP129.00
Contrast Half-Zip Funnel Neck Jumper

Off white

Reiss at Reiss (UK)

GBP118.00

Spring 2024 Inspiration

Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Michael Kors Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Proenza Schouler Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Zegna Spring 2024

Latte

From fast food collaborations to popular TikTok aesthetics, such as Tomato Girl and Strawberry Girl, food and drink have become a major source of inspiration in the market, and “coffee order” dressing is proving the latest trend within recent fall communications. For example, FRAME spotlighted “Café Au Lait” in a recent email, while Altar’d State leaned into the popularity of the Pumpkin Spice Latte. #lattemakeup has become a frontrunner for beauty, clocking up over 151 million global views on TikTok and spotted on the likes of Hailey Bieber. Everlane has heavily invested in browns so far this season, with the shade accounting for 25% of recent arrivals – lighter latte-inspired shades make up the bulk of the palette, with “tiger’s eye” and “toasted coconut” noteworthy color names. Meanwhile, Banana Republic’s “costa coffee brown” cashmere sweater has had a majority SKU sell out.

Classic outerwear, including trench coats and soft knits, remains an easy way to tap into this color story and offers all-year-round appeal for both genders. For a trend-led update for SS24, look to MUNTHE’s buttery brown leather for womenswear, or Dries Van Noten’s tailored blazers and trousers.

Recent Communications

FRAME Email US – Aug 9, 2023
Morrison Email US – Sep 8, 2023
@zaraman
Instagram – Zara
Beige
14-1118
Sheepskin
14-1122
Apricot Illusion
14-1120
Latte
15-1220
Sand
15-1225

New Arrivals

Hayden Oversized Lightweight Cashmere Sweater

Costa coffee brown

Banana Republic at Banana Republic (US)

USD150.00
Comfort wool blend zipper jacket

Camel_742

Massimo Dutti at Massimo Dutti (UK)

GBP169.00
The Waffle Long-Sleeve Crew

Toasted coconut

Everlane at Everlane (US)

USD60.00

Spring 2024 Inspiration

Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Carolina Herrera Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
MUNTHE Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Dries Van Noten Spring 2024

Chocolate Brown

A softer and cozy alternative to black, rich browns have gained popularity in recent seasons, fueled by the rising Old Money and Quiet Luxury aesthetics epitomized by Sofia Richie Grainge. Showing no signs of slowing for FW23, River Island called it “the new neutral” and pushed its “shop chocolate” edit in August. Brown also accounted for 12% of majority SKU sell outs of new FW23 stock at the retailer, including four chocolate brown dresses. Our recent menswear Trending Digest also called out browns as a successful investment area in mid-September, particularly for trousers – Mango, Zara and Pull&Bear have all landed dark options in recent weeks.

Chocolate brown continued Quiet Luxury’s dominance at Copenhagen Fashion Week, reinforcing it as a major trend story heading into 2024. Meanwhile, silk & satin and sheer looks stood out at Gestuz and Stine Goya for womenswear and Dolce & Gabbana for menswear, spotlighting them as directional fabric choices for this palette next season.

Friar Brown
19-1230
Brown Patina
18-1242
Monk’s Robe
18-1048
Dark Earth
19-1020
Chocolate Brown
19-0912

Recent Communications

River Island Email UK – Aug 31, 2023
@sofiarichiegrainge
Instagram – Sofia Richie Grainge
@madewellmens
Instagram – Madewell

New Arrivals

Brown mesh bodycon maxi dress

Brown

River Island at River Island (UK)

GBP45.00
Rust Slinky Midaxi Skirt

Rust

New Look at New Look (UK)

GBP21.99
P&B Black Label regular fit twill chinos

Brown_700

Pull&Bear at Pull&Bear (US)

USD49.90

Spring 2024 Inspiration

Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Ganni Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Gestuz Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2024

Stone

Despite being a more micro color story, the broader resurgence of grey within the market reinforces its case as a neutral to watch for 2024. Birkenstock recently promoted its hero Boston and Arizona footwear styles in stone, calling it “the neutral of all neutrals.” Additionally, “stone” appeared as a top arriving apparel color option name across neutrals at our analyzed retailers for FW23. River Island, Zara and Bershka are top stockists, with basic tees and sweaters/sweatshirts selling well. Menswear retailers should push the color within earth-inspired color stories for a quick win, or promote more functional styles within the ever popular outdoors and Gorpcore-inspired style stories.

Also, take note of Jennifer Lawrence, who recently epitomized the rising Corpcore aesthetic with her all-grey outfit from The Row, dubbed The Groutfit. This trend will likely continue for Spring 2024, with Tory Burch presenting head-to-toe grey and REMAIN’s tailoring-inspired stone bandeau dress.

Moonbeam
13-0000
Oatmeal
13-0401
Light Gray
12-0404
Crystal Gray
13-3801
Silver Lining
14-4501

Recent Communications

Poetry Email US – Jul 24, 2023
Birkenstock Email US – Aug 1, 2023
@boohooMAN
Instagram – boohooMAN

New Arrivals

Ribbed T-shirt with decorative seams

Beige

Mango at Mango (UK)

GBP15.99
Parker Set

Stone

Free-Est at Free People (US)

USD108.00
Crew Neck Knitted pullover

Atmosphere/beige

Jack & Jones at Jack & Jones (UK)

GBP45.00

Spring 2024 Inspiration

Launchmetrics/Spotlight
REMAIN Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Dion Lee Spring 2024
Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Ami Spring 2024

Date analysis
Men’s & women’s apparel products new in Jul 1 – Sep 18, 2023 unless otherwise stated.

Sell outs
Products that arrived and had a majority SKU sell out Jul 1 – Sep 18, 2023

US & UK retailers considered
Abercrombie & Fitch, ARKET, Banana Republic, Bershka, EXPRESS, Everlane, Gap, H&M, J.Crew, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Pull&Bear, Reserved, River Island, UNIQLO, Zara