The 6 key Spring 2020 trends confirmed by the runways…and the data to back it up
Let us help you power walk into Spring 2020 like Leon Dame did for Margiela. Our in-house analysts decode the major trends from the latest runway shows.
Over the last five weeks, the tone for Spring 2020 was set by hundreds of designers across four capital cities. As you're reading this, you and countless other buyers and designers worldwide are poring over these collections to identify the most successful trends to adapt to your assortments.
And, we've done the hard work for you. Our analyst team has reviewed every look from the runway and applied their knowledge of what's working commercially, so you know the winners to back. Read on as we present the trends that are going to be a hit next season.
Nostalgia was the key theme of Spring 2020 as designers drew inspiration from eras past. The '70s emerged as the decade of choice with earthy color palettes, suede, flared jeans and bohemian accessories spearheaded by designers such as Prada, Fendi and Alberta Ferretti.
Models stomped the runway (quite literally at Margiela) in platform heels, which are already up 25% YoY in the US - a hot item to carry over from Fall.
Think sheer, frothy tulles, organza and voluminous silhouettes. Femininity thrived on the runway. Soft pistachio and lilac tones are hailed as the new pastels and tipped to be the standout palette of spring. Longer lengths and puff sleeves are the most commercial messages within this trend, updated in seasonal colors and prints. The midi dress continues to hold court with FW19 arrivals already up 45% on FW18 with an equal investment in plain and printed styles.
Key accessories to build out this look - naked sandals, Mary-Janes, embellished headbands, micro bags and pearls.
Check out how the four cities’ color palettes boiled down:
The primary palette shows every instance of color on the Spring runways, while the secondary palette shows the key color stories within.
JLo's internet-breaking appearance at Versace was the standout moment of Milan Fashion Week. The revival of the iconic dress from her 2000 Grammy's look was one of the many tropical-inspired patterns seen on the runway. Jungle prints went hand-in-hand with the application of animal prints, which continued to dominate across all categories. Tiger, zebra, snakeskin, cow and giraffe prints all made an appearance while Dolce and Gabbana embraced its maximalist roots and clashed skins together.
Animal prints continued to influence accessories where snake and croc were prominent footwear, handbag and belt trends.
In the current market, animal print is showing no sign of slowing down.
Animal print accounts for 8% of all patterned apparel in stock, and despite YoY growth in both regions, the UK market is far more invested than the US.
Utilitarian influences spotted on the runway include khaki and neutral colors, and functional details. For silhouettes, boilersuits were still present; however cargo pants (seen at Tibi and Fila) crowned the hero item for this story. Oversized pockets on shirts and dresses lent its hand to this trend while crossbody and belt bags and toe post sandals were the go-to for accessories.
Gothic for spring? Groundbreaking
The all-black looks at Paris, Milan and London shows emerged in contrast to the soft and pretty color palettes of the hyper feminine story. Already an essential fabrication in fall assortments (and perhaps encouraged by the confirmed Matrix reboot?) black leather will be unseasonably present for spring. This trend was also interpreted with sweeping silhouettes, vintage-inspired dresses, netting and dark makeup. Look to Jil Sander, Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Erdem for inspiration.
The vacation aesthetic continued from Spring 2019 with cover-ups and kaftans as essential silhouettes at Roland Mouret and Cynthia Rowley. Look to little white dresses to tie into this theme and compliment the jungle and palm prints. To build out a vacation story, invest in natural fabrics such as raffia and wicker for bags and sunhats. In retail, natural bags were a success for Spring 2019, seeing an increase of 56% on the previous year.
Shell accessories, as seen at Prada, also accompanies this trend and the sunglasses styles to make a note of are round frames and tinted lenses.
Also of note
In addition to seasonal trends, designers also showcased deeper themes that will continue to impact retail for years to come.
Size-inclusivity and diversity proceed to gain recognition in high fashion. Designers championing these movements included Tommy Hilfiger, Chromat and Rihanna in her Savage X Fenty show.
Designers are using their platforms at fashion weeks to draw attention to political and environmental issues, such as Prabal Gurung's statement sashes and carbon-neutral runways at Gucci and Gabriela Hearst.