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What To Expect For Fall 2023

Ahead of the new season kicking off in February, we pre-empt the biggest trends set to influence the runway.

The top four stories pull influence from Barbie and Wednesday Addams.

  • Barbiecore color stories will sustain into fall thanks to Pantone naming Vivid Magenta as its color of 2023. Ultra Femme themes will also prevail from Spring 2023, with heart motifs a key detail, while the Wednesday Addams influence will continue soft grunge themes – already spotted in pre-fall collections.
  • Fashion fanatics will be excited to see Daniel Lee’s first collection for Burberry at London Fashion Week, while others eagerly await Alessandro Michele’s successor at Gucci. We also expect to see tributes to the late Vivienne Westwood during LFW, who passed away in December aged 81.
  • Designers continue to look outside of the four main cities to showcase their collections. For Fall 2023, Marni is heading to Tokyo and Versace is presenting in Los Angeles two days before The Oscars, in what we expect to be a star-studded event.

Love Is In The Air

Hyperfemininity was a key theme on the Spring 2023 runways, with designers showcasing oversized bows, heart motifs and puff sleeves within collections. Balletcore trends have further fueled this theme over the past year, characterized by pale pinks and delicate fabrics.

For Fall 2023, we expect to see Femme themes to grow. In particular, heart motifs will be more widely seen across prints, details and jewelry. For Pre-Fall 2022, Carolina Herrera heavily lent into this story, showcasing eveningwear dresses with structured heart bodices and heart sequins. We also expect to see more size inclusive designs for traditionally feminine looks, as championed by size inclusive brand Selkie which presented its Spring 2023 collection on the New York runway for the first time last year.

Subcultures Underpin Themes

2022 birthed a host of new ‘core’ aesthetics that dominated fashion trends. In particular, Barbiecore was one of the largest themes to emerge in 2022, which was cemented thanks to Valentino’s Fall 2022 Pink PP collection and continued to be a huge color story within Spring 2023 collections.

Pantone announced 2023’s Color of the Year as Vivid Magenta, and so we expect fuchsia hues to continue to dominate color stories into fall. With season two of Wednesday now confirmed, Wednesday Addams’ influence on fashion will prevail. As such, expect to see soft grunge and goth trends dominating fall trends, with black dresses having already made an appearance in pre-fall collections – particularly at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

New Locations & Influences

Designers continue to seek out new locations outside of the four main cities to showcase their collections. For Fall 2023, Marni will be hosting its show in Tokyo on February 1st, one of the brand’s most important markets. Versace will also present its mens and womens wear collection in Los Angeles this season, two days ahead of The Oscars.

In Spring 2023, we saw a host of celebrities take to the catwalk, from Cher at Balmain and Paris Hilton at Versace to Kim Kardashian curating the Dolce & Gabbana collection. We expect to see designers make more celebrity affiliations to create viral moments in Fall 2023, particularly harnessing partnerships with celebrities in markets they are looking to enter, such as K-pop stars. We also expect to see a host of brand collaborations, typically used to bolster a brand’s status within the streetwear community. Keep an eye out for upcoming announcements.

The New Guard

This season sees some of the world’s largest designer names change their creative director. At the end of December, and after seven years at the helm, Alessandro Michele announced he is leaving Gucci with immediate effect – his successor is yet to be announced. Also, former Bottega Veneta creative head Daniel Lee is taking the up reins from Riccardo Tisci at Burberry. We expect Lee to use his first show to reimagine classic Burberry items, such as the trench coat.

Tom Ford will also leave his eponymous label at the end of 2023, after Estée Lauder acquired the brand in a $2.8bn deal. We expect the designer to use this year to hone his brand’s identity, a combination of 80s glamour and 90s sex appeal. We also expect London designers to pay tribute to the late Vivienne Westwood, who passed away in December aged 81, by showcasing a host of punk looks within their collections.

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