H2: plus,
With demand for inclusivity rising coupled with denim's post-pandemic comeback, this report breaks down and analyzes retailers' shop-by-fit options to unearth the trends to back and untapped opportunities.
EDITED's key takeaways
• While skinny jeans are the top-invested style, younger consumers are calling for their cancelation. Spring 2022 shows have set up straight leg silhouettes as the new denim staple, with even slouchier fits bookmarked for more directional retailers. With inclusivity a core value for Gen Z, ensure trends are accessible regardless of size.
• Light washes and mid blue rinses are on the horizon for next spring. With some of these shades lending themselves to top moving styles, they should easily transition into future assortments. Darker hues currently dominate plus-size denim assortments, presenting an opportunity to introduce softer hues to fit into 90s and Y2K stories.
• Retailers may be ramping up their sustainable efforts; however, this lags within the size-inclusive market. Innovate with plant-based dyes, which were a talking point at Première Vision and organic, recycled and resource-saving alternatives. This can also justify higher price points, which ASOS, Banana Republic and Madewell currently dominate by using water-saving initiatives or more conscious materials.
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Plus
The silhouettes
The skinny jean remains the go-to silhouette, boasting steeper investment than more trend-driven, relaxed styles. Straight leg jeans saw the second-highest investment in the US and experienced high SKU activity at Abercrombie & Fitch and boohoo. With influences from the 90s and Y2K eras continuing to inform ranges, the straight leg is a risk-free shape for retailers' future ranges. Despite the skinny's prowess, comfort is a key factor, with US retailers giving jeggings equal weighting to slim and boyfriend styles and a greater proportion of UK plus ranges are dedicated to wide-leg shapes vs. straight size.
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The price points
In the US, entry price points across plus denim categories are mainly dominated by boohoo and Forever 21. Simply Be's vast assortment in the UK allows them to operate at both an exit and an entry-level price point across denim dresses and outerwear. Madewell's Plus Perfect Vintage and Plus Curvy Stovepipe jeans command the highest price point, currently at $135.00. These styles are made at Fair Trade Certified™ factories and contain specialized materials such as Cone® comfort stretch denim and ISKO Reform™, which uses "holding power innovation" to create "a one size smaller look".
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The fabrics & washes
The blue washes invested in for plus falls on the darker side compared with petite and tall jean's color breakdowns. With light and mid washes seeing success across jeans and outerwear, combined with these hues' commercial appeal at the Pre-Spring 2022 shows, retailers need to ensure these rinses are included in plus ranges. UK retailers have lightened up ranges by prioritizing white and neutrals over navies.
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As comfort underpins this category, retailers are highlighting stretch properties and materials in care descriptions. While cotton is the primary fiber used, only 9% of the jeans currently available use alternatives to conventional cotton through a partnership with The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). And despite the high proportions of styles containing petroleum-based materials, the term "recycled" is only attached to 3% of jeans stocked, signifying that while retailers have been giving denim an eco overhaul, the plus-size market has been ignored.
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Images via boohoo, Old Navy, Missguided
Petite
The silhouettes
With the most significant proportion of flared and wide silhouettes available than any other market and split hem styles seeing high SKU activity, the petite denim sector is geared more towards trends. Mom jeans are backed more prominently here than in plus-size and are a top moving style. Additionally, out of the areas analyzed, petite has some of the lowest investment in skinny jeans, particularly in the US where they're given almost equal weighting with straight legs.
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The price points
Banana Republic operates at the highest price point across the US in jeans, dresses, skirts and shorts. Outerwear is most expensive at Loft and denim jumpsuits at Madewell extend petite all-in-ones prices towards $100.00. In the UK, most categories exit at ASOS, while PrettyLittleThing and boohoo offer the most accessible denim styles due to aggressive discounting levels.
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The fabrics & washes
The top stocked washes for petite jeans are the same across both regions. However, black rinses make up a higher proportion in the UK, while white denim is more prevalent at US retailers. Light rinses and bleached effects were among the top moving hues, as seen at Missguided and ASOS through the Topshop petite range. Mid washes also worked well in jeans at River Island, Loft, PrettyLittleThing and Nasty Gal.
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Comfort was communicated with "soft" and "stretch" appearing as top words. There's a heightened focus on sustainability in petite descriptors, driven by Banana Republic outlining its Washwell™ method, which saves on water compared to conventional processes. In the UK, water-saving techniques are communicated through the use of organic and recycled cotton (using less energy, water and waste) at ASOS and Missguided.
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Images via PrettyLittleThing, Topshop, Missguided
Tall
The silhouettes
Though still the top-stocked style, tall jeans have the lowest proportion of skinny silhouettes in the UK, giving exposure to more relaxed shapes. Equalling 8% of the US range, tapered styles see the highest backing here compared to other categories, driven by investment in Madewell's tall range.
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The price points
Boohoo achieved the lowest entry price in tall denim through its mini skirts and shorts. The brand also has the highest exit price point for outerwear in the US with oversized jackets. Priced between $135.00 and $148.00, Madewell's jeans operate in the highest US threshold, justified through technical features, conscious processes and premium cottons.
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The fabrics & washes
The top three hues all are given equal weighting across regions, with black and mid blue washes resonating with tall consumers as top moving rinses. Investment in greens outpaced neutrals in the US and navies in the UK, with seagrass, sage and khaki shades noted at ASOS and Missguided.
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Distressed and ripped finishes were a clear trend investment, with 6% of tall jeans including this detail in their care descriptors. Missguided's recycled range, which extended to tall shapes, drove up interest in this keyword while "responsible" featured in 9% of UK tall jeans. ASOS, which also partner with the BCI, describes more responsible laundry and farming processes.
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Images via Topshop Tall, Madewell, Missguided
Men's plus
The silhouettes
Men's plus sized denim is an underserved area, with less than half the investment of womenswear. Within plus-size jeans, shapes are predominantly skinny silhouettes in the UK. By comparison, the staple shape isn't as dominant in the US, allowing retailers to allocate more options to looser fits. Slim and straight cuts are currently backed by Target and Lee. Marketwide, roomier styles that taper at the ankle have seen success at River Island and Levi's.
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The price points
Across the US and UK, boohooMAN offer the lowest price points for denim categories, which are currently discounted between 36-46% on average. In the US, prices exit at Levi's for shorts and jeans and then at Target's Goodfellow brand for outerwear. The highest UK price for outerwear and shorts is at River Island, while Levi's dominates for jeans and Tommy Hilfiger for shorts.
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The fabrics & washes
Dark indigo rinses are a popular hue in big & tall lines, also seeing high SKU activity at Levi's. Retailer's looking to expand sizing should lead with this hue as its presence on the spring men's runway will set it up for commercial success as it appeals to all shapes. The growth of Gorpcore has led to earthy tones and utility details infiltrating menswear. Target and Levi's are leading in denim, backing with brown, khaki and neutral jeans, providing an add-on sale to match with shackets.
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Comfort and stretch descriptors may be a core driver in selling denim in a post-COVID world. However, "heavyweight" was included in 11% of jean descriptors, referencing durable cotton and evoking the American workwear aesthetic, which is alive and well at legacy brands like Lee, Levi's and Dickies at Target. Responsible sourcing and farming cropped up in UK descriptors as River Island's range includes BCI cotton.
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Images via boohoo, River Island, boohoo
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