The final day for us at Bread & Butter Berlin and a last chance to add to the trends we spotted on Day 1 and Day 2 , sourcing new and exciting direction across denim, street and youth markets. Here, we share those trends, adding data to what we’ve seen on the trade show floor to build the clearest picture of commerciality around!
Colour: Berry Belief
Navy and khaki have ruled the roost for the denim and activewear markets for a couple of seasons, and although they still have a strong presence, it is refreshing to see a new shade coming through. A sea of berry tones swept through this season’s Bread & Butter, in cosy puffer jackets and knitted accessories for women at Timberland or providing contrast to navy in patterned knit polos at Lyle & Scott. Penguin’s entire AW14/15 story was built around the shade, with the purple tones mixed in with reds and navies.
The trend was carried through to footwear, with smart leather and suede buckled brogues at Solovair. This trade show trend matches what we’re currently seeing on the menswear catwalks. The colour wheel to the right visualises colour usage at last week’s Milan fashion week, showing berry to be a popular breakthrough shade of the season.
Print: Power of Checks
Such is the power of checks that there was barely a stand without the successful print in some form. Familiar tartans inspired the interpretations at Fil Noir and Native Youth played their tartan checks out on lovely brushed fabrics – a great way to add new interest to the print. Our favourite interpretations came from Bertoni, who not only used checks in a subtle under-collar detail, but had also developed a digitally deconstructed check for use on shirting, which was colourful and uniquely theirs.
Again, checks are a print inline with what designers are showing already for AW14/15. Many menswear designers in London, including Richard Nicoll, Pringle of Scotland and Topman Designs. In fact, 50% of Topman’s best selling shirts in the last three months have been checked, according to our commercial database.
Trend: Quilting
With talk of ‘ice vortex’ still fresh in the air, it’s a good job that quilted outerwear is still a major trend! The technique was used in traditional form of practical and cosy puffer jackets at Dolomite and Diadora. Our commercial database is holding data on nearly 5,000 puffer jackets that are currently available at global retailer, ranging in price from £6 (George at ASDA) to £4100 (Boudicca at Farfetch). The largest stockists are currently Kohls, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Burberry and Nordstrom, so it comes as no surprise that 32% of the puffer outerwear market is luxury.
There were also some more innovative uses of quilting on show at Bread & Butter, especially from womenswear brands. Eleven Paris used quilted leather to great effect in a leather jacket and Ichi’s geo-textured jumpers stood out as being a new addition to the market. Levi’s played with the stitch lines in their quilting to creating mountain-like detail in their padded denim jacket.
As the trade show wraps up, we’re preparing one of our most awaited articles – Top 5 brands of Bread & Butter AW14/15 – the pick of the most innovative and forward-thinking exhibitors at the show. Stay tuned, we’ll be announcing our winners on Monday!
Katie Smith
